August Gardening Topics

2020

• Monthly Pecan Information Available on Zoom - Becky Carroll, Associate Extension Specialist, Fruits and Pecans

  With the lack of field days and workshops during the COVID19 quarantine, zoom educational sessions have been held monthly for pecan growers since May. These zoom meetings highlight timely topics for pecan growers or homeowners. Extension educators can also participate and receive in-service credit.

  The upcoming session is on August 7 at 1:00 p.m. Advance registration is required to receive a link to join the meeting. Topics for this month will be how to determine pecan development stages, crop load assessment and thinning, how drought affects nut development and updates on weevil and aphid control. This is open to anyone and there is no charge for the event. Please feel free to promote to your pecan audience.

  Dates for upcoming session are August 7, September 11, October 2, and November 6. Each session will require new registration.

  Information and recordings of previous sessions are available at: Oklahoma Pecan Management

  OR

  Oklahoma Pecan Management Facebook

  Email Becky Carroll for preregistration!

• Fall Gardens - Lynn Brandenberger, Extension Specialist

  Being successful with your fall garden really begins with getting an early start.  I’ve said for quite a while that the time to begin is as soon as the first cool front comes through the state in August.  Well, Mother Nature has blessed us with the arrival of an early cool front that has brought with it much cooler temperatures and even some rain.  So. . . Now is the time to begin if your garden is ready or at least time to start preparing your garden for fall plantings.  The following steps should allow you to have a great start to my favorite time for gardening!

   

  First, begin by taking a good soil sample and having it analyzed.  Fact sheet PSS 2207 “How to Get a Good Soil Sample” does a great job of outlining the process which will help you manage the fertility in your garden.  The great thing about using the OSU lab for soil testing is that fertility recommendations can be tailored to specific vegetable crops if that is what you would like, otherwise just ask for the general garden recommendations.

   

  If you are hoping to direct seed then pre-germinating the seed would be a great way to go if you will be seeding by hand.  Watch the "How to pre-germinate seed video."

   

  Your second step is to decide what you want to produce in the garden.  Personally I prefer a mixture of brassica greens like cabbage, bok choy, collard, kale, turnip, mustard, and arugula along with other greens like spinach, Swiss chard, beet greens, and leaf lettuce.  Greens are some of the more nutritious vegetables on the planet so I always include some in my fall garden.  Recommendations for varieties can be found in Fact Sheet HLA-6035 .  USDA has a website that lists nutrient content of all sorts of things, so if you are having trouble deciding on crops take a look at their website: https://fdc.nal.usda.gov/api-guide.html. Greens are also pretty straight forward when it comes to growing them verses fruiting crops that we produce in the summer.  Another group to consider for your fall garden are cool season root crops like carrot, beet, turnip, etc.  The trickiest one of these to establish is carrot which may require a little more effort to obtain a stand of plants. 

   

  With carrot or any other crop (spinach) that can be a challenge to germinate here’s the deal for fall.  We want to establish them in August which can be hot and dry therefore we need to make provisions to keep soil temperature down i.e. preferably in the 75oF or less range.  Along with keeping soil temperature moderated we need to keep the soil moist enough to prevent the soil from crusting over, sounds challenging doesn’t it.  It really isn’t that complicated, just use some type of organic mulch to moderate the temps and also reduce the evaporation of water from the soil surface.  Using a mulch like wheat or oat straw along with light applications of water (sprinkling) of the planted area 2-3 times per day will achieve the cooling that we need along with preventing the soil from crusting over.  Just keep an eye on your seeded rows and pull the mulch back a little from the plants once you notice them starting to emerge.

   

  The other group of vegetables that can be a part of your fall garden are summer crops that we carry over into the fall season.  These could include crops like tomato, or peppers, etc.  The situation with these crops is that if we take care of them they will produce up to the first frost and if we can protect them we might even have a few more weeks of produce from them following the first cold snap.

   

  Begin by controlling any pest problems that the crop may have i.e. spider mites come to mind then you may want to give them a little boost with a light application of nitrogen fertilizer.  So, what does a light application mean?  Well let’s say that you have some tomatoes and you want to give them a “little” bit of nitrogen.  So what I’m suggesting is to apply nitrogen at a rate which works out to roughly 0.05 lbs.  (Approximately 0.1 of a pound of 46-0-0 or 0.15 pound of 33-0-0) of nitrogen per 100 square feet, not much is it?  The situation is this:  If we stimulate a little bit of growth we will see some more growth and more flowering and fruiting, if we over stimulate the plant with too much nitrogen then we will have a fantastically fast growing plant with few or no flowers and no fruit.  Better to not fertilize than to over-fertilizer a fruiting plant.  Another way to approach this would be to give your tomato plants a side-dress of compost which will have between 2-4% nitrogen (need 1.25-2.5 lbs./100 sq.ft.) of compost, so that’s a safer approach and it’s organic in the bargain.  For a crop like okra which needs very little nitrogen I wouldn’t fertilize it at all just keep an eye on pests and keep them in check. 

   

  I wish you the very best success in your fall gardens and if you have questions be sure to contact your County Extension Educator for more information.

• Fall Gardening - David Hillock, Consumer Horticulturist

  Gardening is a year-round activity. Those who garden develop an appreciation and a desire for fresh, nutritious vegetables and fruits. In many situations, the best way to obtain fresh vegetables is to grow them at home.

   

  Some of the best quality garden vegetables in Oklahoma are produced and harvested during the fall season when warm, sunny days are followed by cool, humid nights. Under these climatic conditions, plant soil metabolism is low; therefore, more of the food manufactured by the plant becomes a high quality vegetable product.

   

  Successful fall gardening begins much earlier than the fall season. Factors to be considered are adequate soil preparation, available garden space, crops to be grown, space for each crop, varieties to use, and obtaining the quantity and varieties of seed. Below are some tables to guide you in when and how to start and plant your favorite fall vegetables. For additional information on fall gardening see OSU Extension fact sheet HLA-6009 Fall Gardening.

  Fall Gardening Suggestions

  • Seeds left over from planting the spring garden may be used in planting the fall garden if the seed is stored in a cool, dry location or in a refrigerator or freezer.
  • Seeds that are stored in the freezer properly should remain viable for many years. Immediately following planting, return surplus seed to the freezer.
  • In order to get early established growth, supplemental irrigation is desirable. Most vegetable crops will benefit from supplemental irrigation. Information on drip irrigation may be available from garden centers and county Extension centers. This technique allows an efficient method of irrigation.
  • In order to conserve on water usage, water only the furrows or rows and wait for rainfall for general watering.
  • Soak seeds overnight for planting (except beans and peas). This will hasten germination and seedling emergence when soil drying is most critical to plant growth.
  • Cover seeded rows to reduce soil temperature and drying.

  The Fall Gardening Fact Sheet also contains Fall Planting Guide charts for Tender Vegetables and Semi-hardy Vegetables.

• Dividing Perennials - David Hillock

  As perennials mature they often need dividing to encourage vigor and continued performance. Luckily the plants provide us a few clues when it is time to divide them - smaller leaves and fewer flowers, weaker stems, the center becomes open and all the growth is on the perimeter of the clump or it may have just outgrown its spot.

   

  The general rule for when a perennial should be divided is opposite its flowering time. So a plant that flowers in the spring can be divided after it flowers, usually in late summer or fall. Late August is a good time to start dividing these types of perennials in Oklahoma. Some plants don’t care when they are divided, but in any case care should be taken to ensure survival of the new transplants.

   

  Start by digging a trench around the outside of the clump and then lift the entire clump from the ground. Using a sharp knife or spade begin cutting the clump up into smaller clumps about the size of your fist or a gallon sized perennial. Each section should have at least three healthy buds or shoots.

• Keeping Your Shovels and Hand Trowels Clean - Casey Hentges, Oklahoma Gardening Host

  You likely have been using your shovels and hand trowels a lot and will continued to do some in the next coming months.  There is nothing worse than going to get your tool and it is covered in clods of dirt because someone didn’t clean it off. 

   

  Here’s a quick and easy method to help keep those tools clean and sharp.  You’ll just need an old bucket, some course sand, and some oil. 

   

  By keeping a bucket of sand mixed with oil near where you keep your tools, upon returning your tools to storage simply dig your shovel into the sand a couple of times.  The sand removes any soil particles, while keeping the edge sharp and the oil coats the metal to protect it from rust.

   

  Also, instead of using new oil, this makes a great way to recycle oil that you might be draining out of your mowers. 

   

  We all know we should take better care of our tools to give them a longer life, but this quick and simple step will ensure that your shovels and hand trowels are getting the care they need with each use. 

  Check out the Oklahoma Gardening  video!

• Bagworms on Fruit and Pecan Trees - Becky Carroll

  Usually we think of bagworms affecting junipers, bald cypress, and eastern red cedar beginning in mid to late May. This year bagworms have been a widespread problem on many ornamental and fruiting trees. Back in the May 2020 issue of Horticulture Tips, David Hillock describes the life cycle of the bagworm. The male is small moth and female is larval form that never leaves the ‘bag’.

   

  With commercial pecan growers, pecan nut casebearer (PNC) sprays will normally control those new larvae that leave the bag in late May or early June. But this year, either due to later bagworm maturity or low PNC catches and no need to spray, bagworms are being reported in pecan orchards. Large infestations can strip leaves and pre-dispose trees to other problems due to weakened conditions. Bagworms are not easily seen in a large pecan tree and are often mistaken for a dead leaf or twig. Unless growers are monitoring the trees, they may overlook the infestation.

   

  If control is needed on pecans, Bt or Bacillus thuringiensis var. kurstaki, a bacterial insecticide should work fine for control. Other products available include Intrepid or spinosad products. If growers are seeing infestations this year, they need to also prepare to treat next season. After mating this fall, females will lay hundreds of eggs inside the old bag and then drop to the ground to die. Then during the late May to early June timeframe, the larvae will emerge again to repeat the cycle. Pecan growers may need to take this pest into consideration when trying to decide if they will spray for PNC next season.

   

  Reports of bagworms on other fruit trees have been seen where insecticides were not used to protect a fruit crop. The fruit tree demonstration block at the research station at Perkins had a few bagworms on the one and two-year-old apples. Most of the bagworms were removed and squished by hand. The block also received an insecticide application.

• 2019 State Pecan Show - Becky Carroll

  Although the Oklahoma Pecan Growers Annual Meeting was canceled in June, the 2019 State Pecan Show was still held, judged and winners were announced on the Oklahoma Pecan Management Facebook Page along with pictures (@okpecans) and on the Oklahoma Pecan Management Webpage. All the entries with their statistics can be found there. Ribbons and a list of entries were sent to those participating.

   

  Payne County’s Dick Hoffman received top honors winning all four plaques. The Best of Show entry was a Mohawk and those that are familiar with Mohawks may be surprised. It was an outstanding Mohawk and a great overall entry. We will have to see if the Hoffmans will share any of their tips for successful entries sometime! The deadline for 2020 State Pecan Show will be January 2021. Watch for more information as we get closer to harvest season.

  Best of Show

  • Dick Hoffman, Payne County, Mohawk, 61.4 % Kernel, 34.6 nuts/lb

  Champion Native

  • Dick Hoffman, Payne County, 55.3 % kernel, 58 nuts/lb

  Highest % Kernel

  • Dick Hoffman, Payne County, Lakota, 61.6 % kernel

  Largest Pecan

  • Dick Hoffman, Payne County, Podsednik, 27.7 nuts/lb
• Soil Testing - David Hillock

  Healthy plants require a healthy soil. One way to determine the ability of your soil to sustain plants is to take a soil test.

   

  When and How Often to Soil Test – Soil testing should be viewed with the same approach as one would take toward servicing the lawn mower or car engine. If we do not know how much gas and oil are present, we check the fuel gauge and dip stick. If we want to know whether or not soil pH, available phosphorus and available potassium exist at desirable levels we need to test the soil. Since these soil properties do not change much from one year to the next, it is not necessary to soil test the same area each year. However, a soil test once every three years will provide information needed to manage a lawn and garden properly.

   

  Plant-available nitrogen in the soil changes considerably from year to year and even within a season. Plant growth, addition of nitrogen fertilizer and decay of organic matter will all cause significant changes in available nitrogen in just a few days. It is not necessary to soil test each year or within the season to closely monitor nitrogen needs. Instead, add small amounts of fertilizer nitrogen throughout the growing season, or aerate the soil by shallow cultivation to promote the release of organic nitrogen to improve plant growth or green color.

   

  Collecting a Representative Soil Sample – Homeowners and lawn care professionals must realize the spatial variability existing around the yard when collecting a soil sample. Each sample collected should represent the area to be fertilized. The fertility level in the vegetable garden may be different from that of a flower bed. Soil test parameters in the front yard may be drastically different from those in the backyard. Therefore, separated samples may need to be collected from those areas so they can be treated differently. Avoid sampling “odd-ball” areas. A core or slice from the surface to a depth of 6 inches should be taken from 15 to 20 locations in each area and composited into one representative sample for testing.

   

  Soil samples may be submitted to the County Extension office. They will send the samples to the Soil, Water and Forage Analytical Laboratory for testing, and then send the results back to you with fertilizer recommendations. Soil samples are analyzed routinely for pH, nitrate nitrogen, plant available phosphorus and potassium, while secondary and micronutrients are tested on request. A number of other tests such as soil organic matter content and texture are also available through the lab.

• Armadillo Control - David Hillock

  The armadillo is one of the more interesting native mammals in Oklahoma. Unfortunately, they can cause substantial damage to lawns as they search for insects, grubs, and earthworms in the soil. They also dig up shallowly rooted annuals in flower beds. Damage is generally most pronounced in the summer months as lawns are irrigated which makes the soil easier to forage in. Damage is easy to identify as it is noted by multiple shallow holes (Figure 1). Damage to rhizomatous grasses such as bermuda is typically manageable as healthy grass can quickly fill in bare patches. Cool-season grasses, such as fescue, are more problematic as the bare patches will need to be reseeded in the fall. Additionally, the extra irrigation required by cool-season grasses in the Oklahoma summer make them especially attractive to armadillo. The armadillo requires nearby cover that is generally woody thickets. Loose soils are much preferred for this burrowing animal. The armadillo appears to have expanded its range in recent years; however it is often reduced in numbers in northern Oklahoma following prolonged cold. This is the only other mammal other than humans that is known to become infected with leprosy. While the probability of infections is likely low, it is not recommended to handle armadillos with bare skin.

  Lethal Control – Armadillos are not protected in Oklahoma and may be trapped or shot year around. Shooting is an effective method where legal. However, as they are primarily nocturnal (particularly during the summer) this may not be a realistic control. Trapping is highly effective using a large 10 x 12 x 32-inch live catch trap. The smaller live catch traps designed for skunks are too small. Traps with doors on either end are most effective. Use some type of barrier to funnel the armadillo into the trap. Existing barriers such as fences, walls, etc will work. If no existing barrier exists, use boards or temporary fence. The barrier only needs to be a few inches tall as armadillos rarely climb and will typically forage along any barrier they encounter (Figure 2). The trap does not need to be baited, although some homeowners have had success with rotten fruit or eggs. Place the trap either in the area of the landscape where damage is pronounced or where armadillos are entering the landscape (if known). As armadillos are often attracted to freshly irrigated lawns, consider placing traps in an area of the lawn immediately after irrigation. If damage is frequent, you can assume the animal has a burrow nearby in a wooded or riparian area. Once trapped, it is NOT legal to move the armadillo to another location. Transporting animals presents many problems such as disease transmission, displacement of existing wildlife, and stress on the animal moved. Thus, any trapped armadillo should be humanely killed with a shot to the base of the neck or in the head. Do not handle the armadillo to reduce potential of leprosy transmission.

  Repellants – There are no known repellants that are effective for armadillo.

   

  Frightening – Frightening is not effective to reduce armadillo damage.

   

  Exclusion – Exclusion is very effective to reduce armadillo damage to small garden beds. While armadillos can climb and burrow, they typically will not to access a small area. Fences > 12” should eliminate most armadillo use. For lawns, this will not typically be practical.

   

  Habitat Modification – Removal of protective brush may reduce armadillo damage. However, this will change the aesthetics of the property and reduce use by many other species of wildlife that the gardener may wish to attract. Reducing irrigation can reduce damage.

• Managing a Compost Pile - David Hillock

  Compost systems can be simple and slow as a heap or pile, which is turned occasionally during the year. A more structured and complex system requires containers, more turning, and produces finished compost in a few months. In compost piles, water is added to green and brown vegetation layers.

   

  As decomposed plant material, compost is an excellent soil amendment. Compost can loosen clay soils, help sandy soil retain moisture and nutrients, and retain soil moisture when used as mulch. Beneficial bacteria and organisms in compost assist plants in absorbing nutrients. Thus, natural materials are recycled in a home yard environment.

   

  Below are some common questions about composting.

   

  What is Compost? – Compost is a natural dark brown humus-rich material formed from the decomposition or breakdown of organic materials such as leaves, grass clippings, vegetation, vegetable food scraps, and twigs. Bacteria, worms, fungi, and insects need water and air to use the organic materials as food and decompose them.

   

  What is the Procedure to Make Compost? – Organic materials are placed in alternating green and brown layers in a container, bin, or pile. Alternating green and brown layers of material help assure the correct carbon and nitrogen amounts. With water and air, bacteria and insects use the materials as a food and energy source. The bacteria need water to live and grow. This process generates heat from 140 to 160 degrees F. Aeration is done by turning the container or pile of material. The more turning, the more air the bacteria have available, and the faster the process works. When the temperature decreases, the process is complete.

   

  • How is a Compost Bin Made? – Bins may be made in various sizes and with a variety of materials. The following easy steps describe compost pile construction:
  • Construct a confining perimeter with 3’ to 5’ diameter and 4’ high. Materials may be concrete blocks, railroad ties, wire mesh, boards, old pallets, other fencing material, barrel, or garbage can with holes for air.
  • Layer green (wet) and brown (dry) vegetable matter (1 part green to 3 parts brown).
  • Wet thoroughly, then sprinkle with water periodically.
  • Turn every week to speed the decomposition process.

  How Long Does it Take Compost to Form? – The time of completion will vary according to the type and amount of materials used, the climate, the size and type of bin or pile used, and the amount of aeration or turning of the pile. With the correct carbon to nitrogen ratio, water, and air, compost should be ready to use in 4-6 months. If the pile is turned more frequently, the compost should be ready more quickly. The smaller the individual pieces of material in the pile, the more surface area the microorganisms have to work on and the faster the materials will decompose. Shredding or chipping branches decreases the decomposition time.

   

  When is the Compost “Done?” – Compost is ready when the temperature of the pile falls to ambient levels, the material is dark, crumbles easily, pieces are small and there is no odor.

   

  How can the Process be Sped Up? – Mixing frequently provides more air for the bacteria. Keep the material moist with soaking about once a week. Break the materials into smaller pieces.

   

  What can be Composted?

  • Most yard waste such as grass clippings, leaves, twigs, excess vegetation
  • Non-fat containing food scraps
  • Twigs or chipped branches
  • Coffee grounds, tea leaves

  What cannot be Composted?

  • Large branches
  • Fatty foods and grease, meats, dairy products, fish
  • Bones
  • Synthetic products such as plastics
  • Diseased plants
  • Weeds and vegetables that produce abundant seeds
  • Pet or human waste

  Why Make Compost?

  • Recycle natural materials
  • Reduce amount of chemical fertilizer used
  • Reduce amount of material going to landfills
  • Reduce landfill tipping fees for individuals or communities
  • Prolong landfill life

  What can Compost be used for?

  • Improve soil structure and texture
  • Increase water-holding capacity of sandy soil
  • Loosen clay soil and improve drainage
  • Add nutrients to improve soil fertility
  • Aid erosion control
  • Potting soil
  • Mulch around shrubs to retain moisture
• Growing Fall Irish Potatoes - David Hillock

  If seed potatoes are available and space permits, potatoes are a desirable supplement to the fall and winter food supply. Yields are usually lower than from spring-planted potatoes, but proper storage is much easier to provide and potato quality is excellent.

   

  The practice of using potatoes from the fresh produce counter for planting purposes is not recommended. This kind of material frequently does not produce adequate growth and is considerably lower in yield.

   

  One of the problems is getting a stand of plants early enough to produce a crop before fall frosts. This emphasizes the need to use matured, medium-to-large potatoes that require cutting into 1 or 1½ ounce size seed pieces.

   

  Cut potatoes should be allowed to cure 3 to 5 days before planting, and they should be stored under cool (45° to 65°F) conditions during curing.

   

  In order to have a more favorable (cooler) soil at planting time, deep furrows may be opened in the late afternoon, seed pieces planted, covered with two inches of soil, watered, and mulched with straw or other available organic material. This should provide more favorable conditions for growth.